Hong Kong & Macau: A Culinary Vacation

If you’ve spent time with me at some point during the last 5 months, then you know that one of the things I have been talking about incessantly is food. This was never an issue with me pre-Asia, but after living in Malaysia where, to say the least, food and I do not get along, I pretty much am constantly thinking about either Mexican food or a big juicy burger from In N Out. To make matters worse, since pork is something that does not occur in Terengganu where we live, I have developed a craving for it all the time (even though I could probably count the number of times I’d eaten pork before coming to Asia on one hand).

Lucky for me, I just spent the last 5 days in Hong Kong and Macau, lands of delicious international food and more pork than a pork-deprived girl could ask for. We began our adventure in Macau, a small island-ish country off the coast of China, about an hour’s ferry ride from Hong Kong. We only had 1 day there, so we made sure to use our time wisely. Since we were traveling with Fay and Peter (F&P), and they had been there once before, using our time wisely was very easy to do. After walking the colonial streets (thanks to Portugal) and taking in the beautiful architecture and prevalence of Portuguese AND Cantonese, we hit the casinos and buffets.

A colonial plaza in Macau

Besides being known for being close to China and colonial, Macau is also known for being a huge gambling spot for Chinese and Hong Kong tourists. Fay and Peter had a great time observing them and eating buffet food the last time they were there, so we let them be our guides. We ended up at the Sands Casino, where after an incredible splurge on a $30 buffet (endless sashimi, desserts, Chinese food, and BBQ PORK!!) all four of us cashed in about $2.50 each and hit the roulette tables. Needless to say, we all walked away $2.50 poorer. Thinking about it now though, I probably gained about 5 lbs that night, so I think I came out ahead.

Fay enjoying all-you-can-eat sashimi

After this very exciting and eventful day, Fay and Peter lead the way to the Hong Kong ferry, and we jumped aboard and headed for our guest house in Kowloon, the part of Hong Kong that is attached to mainland China and is a short ride across the water from Hong Kong Island. Hong Kong is a fabulous city; F&P mentioned that they would be able to live there if they ever had the opportunity, and I would have to agree (don’t worry, family, it’s not in my plans for any time soon). It’s very cosmopolitan on the HK Island side, and slightly reminiscent of KL with the high fashion mall culture. The Kowloon side was much homier, and felt culturally closer to China somehow (well, it was).

Kowloon

In HK, we did what any travelers in need of a city would do—we ate and shopped. To Peter’s amusement and Ezra’s amazement, my eating of pork for almost every meal continued. Also, with the help of F&P, I discovered something amazing: The Buff. This beautiful, soft, stretchy, multipurpose piece of cloth has changed my life by working as a headband, hair covering, hat, facemask, neckerchief, scarf, sweatband, wristband, and so much more. I heartily recommend it. Even more so than pork at this point.

Other HK highlights include taking the skytram straight up the side of Victoria Peak and ending up at the very top, looking out over all of Hong Kong from the country’s highest point.

At the top of Victoria Peak

We also made it over to Lantau Island on our last day, and took a 45 minute gondola ride REALLY high up over steep green slopes, through the wind, rain and fog, until we reached the Tian Tan Buddha. The rain and fog made it truly mystical as we ascended the many steps to the world’s largest bronze Buddha.

Tian Tan Buddha

Now, as we fly to Bangkok for our 10 days in Thailand, I have time to think about what my first East Asia experience has given to me. Besides the pork and the buff, being in Hong Kong and Macau really underscored the importance of recognizing diversity in Asia. Even though I know better, I think have in the past lumped all of Asia together as “the East,” and haven’t tried very hard to see how truly different “Asian” cultures are. HK was just as different of a city from KL as it was from San Francisco or London in my opinion, something that I probably wouldn’t have expected if I’d thought about it. It’s quite an exercise to really let go of all your preconceptions about a place, because often we don’t even know we have them until we’re surprised by the reality. Even though I see myself as a very open-minded person, I still have a lot to work on as far as seeing the world more objectively, and not from the lens of my own culture. Not that 100% objectivity is possible (or desirable?), but I think that the more we see a situation without our own cultural baggage, the better off we probably are.

Onward!

(Photos from HK & Macau are posted)

Three Weeks Off

Well folks, I am very happy to say that today is my last day of school for 3 whole weeks! Ez and I are leaving one week early for our two-week mid-semester break, and in my opinion it's a well-deserved week early. Of course, that does mean sacrifices, and I have to admit that I am a little bit sad to be missing 2 things:

1. An all-expenses paid trip to Redang Island with the other ETAs

2. Teacher's Day

The trip to Redang is the one trip that the State Government is treating us to, and I'm sure it will be fun. We will be there in spirit of course, imagining all of the ETA drama that will most likely arise!

Teacher's Day is something that unfortunately American teacher's are not appreciated enough to get: an entire day of the school year dedicated to honoring all teachers all over the country. From what I hear, every teacher gets a gift from each student, and are presented with skits, songs, and words of loving-kindness all day long. It truly must be something special, as the school halls here have been abuzz with the news for weeks now. I've even had some students tell me they have a special surprise for me, and haven't had the heart to tell them yet that I won't be there. I will have to do that today. Sigh.

[BREAKING NEWS STORY: Just as I was writing this, my new mentor told me that I will get SO many flowers on Teacher's Day. I reminded her that I won't be here, and she got very sad and said I was missing out. Then she said, "Well if you were going to be here, I would tell you to wear earrings and make-up because you would look prettier." Oh the Malaysian roller coaster of life.]

So, that's what I am missing out on but, now, I must look towards the future:

Tonight we're taking the overnight bus to KL, spending tomorrow morning there picking up our last minute needs (bug spray, American dollars), and then meeting up with Fay and Peter again at the Airport. Fay just spent a lovely 5 days with us in Hulu Terengganu visiting our schools and writing her novel, while Peter stayed in the Perhentian Islands getting his advanced scuba certification. Tomorrow we will al be united as we travel together to Macau and then Hong Kong. 

After spending 5 days in Hong Kong, Fay and Peter will travel into China, and Ez and I will fly to Bangkok for our 10 or so days in Thailand. Our plans are not fixed, but so far we want to spend a few days in Bangkok, and then head North to Chiang Mai. After Thailand, we will cross the border into Cambodia and spend a little under a week in Siem Reap, visiting Angkor Wat and the many temples of Angkor. We return home to Malaysia the night of June 6th, giving us 2 whole days at home before we have to go back to school on the 9th. I have to say that I am pretty stoked about this plan.

It has become a bit of a routine for me the past few years to think about my goals before heading out on a new phase of life. As I leave the first 2/3 of my Malaysia experience behind, I have been thinking about what I want for the immediate future. This 3 week trip seems pretty important, as it is a time to travel, learn new things about the world, and reflect on my experiences in Asia so far. So, here are my four main goals:

1. Go with the flow. Life can be too frustrating in this part of the world if I try to plan everything out so, instead, I want to be prepared to take any path that is revealed to me.

2. Use my time away from Terengganu to think about what more I have to give here. Amongst all the frustrations and drama I've dealt with here, I've started to experience a little burnout. I know there is so much more I can do, so I want to use this break to forget about all the negativity and focus on how I can make the last 2 months of school really meaningful for both my kids and myself.

3. Consciously learn something new from every place I visit. What is the point of traveling if you can't take something away from each experience and apply it to your own life?

4. Remember to appreciate all the opportunities and experiences I have. With all of the suffering that goes on in the world, especially in this region the past week or so, it feels unfair that I can just pack my bags and see the world for 3 whole weeks. There really is no way to make up for that, but I think it's important to remember just how lucky we really are to be able to live the way we do, and to promise ourselves that with the education we receive and all of the privileges we have, comes the responsibility to make the world a better place in all ways, big and small, that we can. So, that is my goal.

I will do my best to blog and post pictures along the way, so please stay in touch! 

Love,

Sarah

Photos & Videos

I finally have new photos posted from April, and a new video from a few weeks back. Enjoy!

Malaysia's Greatest Hits: Part 1

My grant is more than halfway done, and I feel like it's time for me to reflect on what I really love about this place. It's easy to get bogged down and frustrated, but there is a lot to appreciate here, so it's about time that I present to you "Malaysia's Greatest Hits: Part 1."

The Night Market (Pasar Malam) in Kuala Berang

Every Tuesday, I get a ride over to Ezra's school

 in Kuala Berang, and meet up with him for his improv class. After class, we ride over to the Pasar Malam for dinner. We get the usual; chicken satay with peanut sauce, roti canai, naan, seasoned garbanzo beans, vegetable porridge, kuey teow noodles (like chow fun), and another roti canai for dessert. We take a seat at the market-side cafe and order drinks. It is the best part of my week, as I get to spend time with Ez, eat food I like and gain a little bit of my weight back.

My friend Umi

On our way to the Pasar Malam on Tuesdays, we always stop off at our favorite little fabric

 store to visit my friend Umi. I met her buying pants at the store in February.  She was immediately my best friend, and I look forward to chatting with her every week. Something I really love about her is that she is not afraid of physical contact. Most Malays here avoid touching me other than shaking hands, and any time I've ever tried to hug anyone it is SUPER awkward. Not Umi. She hugs me tightly every time we see each other, and holds my hand the entire time we talk. I feel at home with her, and it is nice to have a home here. This is Umi (in the middle) sewing up my shirt when it ripped.

Riding the Moto

Living in such a rural area, 

I sometimes feel isolated, as it can be 2 or 3 days

 before I ever leave my school grounds. So, when I hop on the back of Ez's moto and leave the school, I feel free. There is nothing like feeling the breeze as you pass fields of palm trees and green hills. Ez taught me to drive the moto myself, but I haven't taken it out on the road. I'm not sure that will happen. Ez is a great driver, and I like being the passenger in this case. 

Laughter and Singing

Students at my school are absolutely obsessed with music. 

Therefore, every chance they get they ask me to play songs for them, and print out the lyrics for them to sing along. I've spent many a recess sitting in the library with a group of 10 kids singing along to songs ranging from "You are My Sunshine" to "My Humps." Recently, I seem to have formed a Latin American music club, where 5 or so kids who love Spanish soap operas have asked me to play Juanes songs for them. We sing along in Spanish and I translate for them. Now, every so often I am greeted with "Buenos días" and "Como estás?" which makes me feel right at home.

Also, laughter is a huge part of my experience here. Sometimes I am sure my students are laughing at me, but a lot of the time I am making them laugh, which is a fabulous experience. There is nothing like standing in front of a classroom of 30 kids and making a really corny joke, and then hearing them laugh for a good 3 minutes.

Ikman

This is Ikman. He is a Form 1 student (age 13) and is undoubtedly the best English student in the class. He is also the most adorable; the smallest in the class by a large

 margin, Ikman is always the most enthusiastic of anyone. Most teachers are always 5-10 minutes late for class, a habit which I have picked up as well. But, Ikman does not tolerate my tardiness. Every Wednesday without fail, as I am sitting at my desk and gathering up my teaching materials to take with me to my Form 1 class, in walks Ikman asking where I have been.

"Ms. Sarah, it's time for class!"

"Ok, Ikman, I'm coming!"

Then he walks me to the classroom smiling the whole way. 

It's good to have things to count on here. Whether its the night market or Ikman poking his head through the office door, it keeps me sane and happy.

Stay tuned for Part 2 in August...

(Also- see photo section for new pictures!)

Kiyomi to the Rescue

Kiyomi flew in to Kuala Terengganu last Wednesday, and with her came the light in the darkness that Ez and I had been experiencing all week. Having a guest in our little home comforted us and gave us something to think about other than the trials and tribulations of Malaysian bureaucracy. There's something about opening your home to someone and showing them your life that makes you appreciate it even more. Maybe because I could step out of myself for a moment and see my life through someone else's eyes. As I saw how Kiyomi appreciated the beauty of our village, the incredibly cute students, and the kindness of the teachers at my school, I realized that in many ways, I really do have it good here. (Kiyomi also liked the food, which I am so happy about, but unforunately it didn't have the same effect on me as her appreciation for the other aspects of our lives here).

To show her a little bit of the country, we took her on Friday to Pulau Kapas, a small island about 10 minutes off the shore of Marang, a city about 1 hour from our house. We joined up with Joe and Zoe and the 5 of us experienced the peacefulness of a non-tourist beach (for once). We'd never been there before, so it was a good way to expand our travels a bit as well.

At the beach...I love my silly hat.

On Saturday, the 5 of us joined Gwynne, Mike and Anna at Sekayu Falls for their English camp. We didn't help them too much, but we did enjoy seeing them, relaxing by the falls, and stealing their delicious food.

After swimming in the river at Sekayu

And then, Kiyomi really rescued me. On Sunday morning (the first day of the work week in Terengganu), I arrived at school to find out that my schedule had changed. None of my classes were the same, and my schedule was not even ready yet, so all week I was either not going to have class, or not be told I had class until the last minute. This pretty much rendered my lesson plans obsolete, and made me really worried that I wouldn't be teaching the same students. Fortunately it turned out that my classes would be the same, just at different times. But, I was still upset by the lack of communication and disregard for my work and position. Luckily Kiyomi (and of course Ezra, my ongoing hero and savior) was there to help turn my anger into understanding, by reassuring me that whatever happened would be ok and, most importantly, by listening to my gripes and being on my side.

Entertaining the kids during my cooking class

And then, Kiyomi rescued me again. On Monday morning, the bulletin board that I had just last week spent 3 hours revamping because I was told it was not colorful enough, was torn down and covered with red felt. All the construction paper I had meticulously cut into shapes and penned in my best handwriting were nowhere to be found. I refrained from screaming and pulling out my hair, and calmly went up to every person I could think of asking why my board had been destroyed, and where were all the pieces. Of course nobody knew, and nobody seemed to mind that I was upset. Finally, somebody hinted that the principal ordered it to be done. So, I decided that I would tell her that it hurt me when I saw her, and maybe she would understand and at the very least assure me it wouldn't happen again. At the end of the day, she found me. She took responsibility, and her apology went something like this: "Yes, I had it taken down because we're having visitors next week and it needed to look more presentable." I asked her why she just didn't have me take it down so at least I could salvage some of my work. She replied, "The workers must have been too rough taking it down."

Feeling upset and defeated, I returned to my desk to find a bag of construction paper and 2 usable remnants of the probably over 30 pieces I had put on the board. Luckily, Kiyomi was there to comfort me and help me redo the board. She helped me put it back together way better than I could have ever done alone, and way faster. 

THANK YOU, KIYO!!!

Tidbits

Faulty Internet
Classes were canceled today because of a marching contest, which means I get to spend all day walking around campus looking for a strong internet signal with which to write this blog! It's only 11:17 and I've already found one (for now), so I'm calling this day a success already. I will probably have to move again soon when this signal leaves me. I wonder what they think of their little ETA Ms. Sarah as she wanders the school, laptop in hand, sitting and typing for a few moments and then getting up again.

Cooking Class

I just realized that this is week 13 for me here at Matang. It's weird, it seems to have gone by quickly, but when I think of my first day it seems ages ago. That's how time is I guess, especially when you're doing crazy things overseas. The past week I have been super busy though, and time really has flown by. Last Tuesday I had my first cooking class with the Form 1 students. We made pasta, which turned out pretty okay even though I could not get the students to stop deep frying the onions and garlic. I just could not get the concept of sautéing across, so the sauce they made was a little more greasy than I usually like it. The kids loved it though, so that is what matters. I even found some parmesan cheese in the supermarket in KT, so that was a huge hit. They put more cheese on their pasta than sauce, which I guess I can understand. Next week I'll teach the Form 2 students to bake chocolate chip cookies.

My Principal Loves Me Now

School has just been chalk full of me teaching, conducting contests and English games, and typing up reports detailing everything I've done to give to my principal at the end of the week. She hasn't observed any of my activities any more of course, but just having the list in front of her makes her like me more. So yay!

All About You Poster

Something kind of fun: On English Day (wednesday) last week, I put up my weekly "All About You Poster" like I normally do, but this time got some GREAT responses. The question of the week was "What are you most afraid of?" Here are the top 2 responses:

"I afraid of Cikgu (teacher) Pha because he hits me."

"I'm afraid of Allah... and people fat."

So that was kind of fun. Under normal circumstances I'd probably do something about the first response, like call Child Protective Services, but since hitting is perfectly legal and an encouraged form of punishment here, there's not much I can do except avert my eyes and throw the teachers a dirty look when it happens. Not much I can do about the 2nd response either. They are taught from an early age to fear God and anyone with a baju kurung size of large or above.

Denied Entry

We went to KL again last weekend for attempt #2 at getting our Chinese visas. The plan was to go to Macau and Hong Kong May 16th with Fay and Peter, and then travel into China (Guilin) with them from May 20-30 before heading off to Thailand just the two of us for a week. Attempt #1 at getting the visa 2 weeks ago failed because it was a surprise Chinese holiday that nobody knew about except for the consulate, which was closed. So Attempt #2 seemed much more likely since the consulate was open and the line for visas fairly short. We got up to the window, but as soon as the woman behind the counter saw that we were planning on entering China overland and had no proof of hotel reservations, she denied us visas right away. Apparently, starting last week, because of the fear of foreigners entering China to protest the Tibet situation, all Americans wishing to enter China must arrive by air only, and must present their roundtrip tickets and hotel reservation at the consulate in order to get visas. Considering that flying into China would cost us $500 each instead of taking the ferry from Hong Kong ($10-$20 each) we decided to leave our dreams of China for another time. Instead, we'll head to Thailand early and then venture into Cambodia. I can't say I'm too disappointed.

Criminal Taxi Drivers

It might sound like I'm about to say that KL taxi drivers are criminals, and while that is absolutely the truth and the worst part of this whole country, what I really mean is that Ez and I had the most interesting cab ride on the way to the bus station in KL. It was raining and we were soaked, so we hailed a cab, got in and right away asked the cab driver to turn on the meter and take us to Station Putra.

"No meter, it's raining."

"Please turn on the meter sir."

"You want meter, find another taxi. It's raining."

"Fine. How much?"

"10 Ringgit."

"What? It's only 5 Ringgit, we've done this many times sir, we're not tourists, we live here."

"10 Ringgit or nothing, it's raining."

"Fine."

And then he just starts in on a monologue about how he could have been anything he wanted to be when he grew up, but he is a taxi driver.

"So what happened?"

"Well, I got perfect scores on my exams, and was an excellent student. But, I have a criminal record."

Ez and I exchange looks and tense up a little. "What did you do?"

"One night in 1979, I got in a drunken fight with a friend and the friend said he wanted to hurt me. So I went home and stole my father's gun and took it back to my friend. I fired two shots, one to the sky and one to the ground just to scare him. The police came and arrested me, and I got 4 years in prison. It could have been 7. It will never go off my record and I will never get a good job. Just 5 minutes in 1979 ruined my entire life."

We ended up having a good chat with the guy, and definitely sympathized with him. Funny how the actual criminal turned out to be one of the more likable taxi drivers.

As I say to most things around here... strange.

Love,

Sarah

The English Journal Project

I'm not one to make fun of my students, but this lovely Form 2 boy had Ezra and I in tears, and I don't think I could forgive myself if I didn't share his words with you.

Last week I started a project with all of my classes called the English Journal Project. After giving out a small journal to each of my 200 students and explaining that the only rule was to write in English, "Ms. Sarah's Mailbox" underneath my desk filled up mighty quickly. At first I was kicking myself for creating hours of extra work, but after I received a letter from, well, let's call him "Hafiz," I knew I had done the right thing:

"Dear Ms. Sarah I want go to the America I want look to parents and house Ms. Sarah. In Malaysia to cold and in America to the hot. Ms. Sarah why your old? And favourite food, drink Ms. Sarah? I want question to Ms. Sarah. Teacher I look your sweet and clearning. I want your speaking question. Forgive me Ms. Sarah! Exchellenge to Ms. Sarah. Name I: Hafiz."

Pure Happiness.